Portland Lighthouses: Fort Williams & Bug Light

I’m joined by the 15% of fellow Canadians who are hit hard by the doom and gloom of our colder months. Time is lost in the snow, grey skies, and temperatures consistently below zero. It’s easier to let the winter months pass by quickly with a robotic schedule of work, social media, and sleep. In an effort to combat the March gloom, a 2am Google search had me questioning if $1,000 and a fifteen-hour flight were worth seeing any European country for two hours before I’d have to return. Alternatively, a discounted rental car and a cold coastline were calling my name. Even though the city is somewhat overlooked, once I scrolled across Portland’s lighthouses, I knew I had found my destination. With a rental confirmed for the next day, I slept with my passport in hand.

My anxiety as a first-time renter caused me to arrive so early at the shop that the doors were still dark. As always, this was just another experience I’d overcomplicated. After paying for 24 hours of freedom, an older gentleman showed me to the lot where rentals were tucked away. I thanked him, assuming he worked for the enterprise and would return inside. However, he mindlessly walked down the road, whistling as he went. Shaking my head, I found my 2022 Toyota Corolla and took off. 

Crossing border security was relatively easy; I had done it dozens of times. Give your passport, state your intent, and have a nice day. Growing up next to Maine, my family frequented the border to take advantage of cheaper groceries and gas. I should have paid more attention to my father’s driving habits, though. Despite doing the speed limit, I was constantly being passed. Lesson learned: in America, speed is a suggestion. 

There were indications that I was approaching Portland other than the signs. For the first time in my life, I experienced bumper-to-bumper traffic. I was being passed on the right by negligent drivers on their phones, trying to keep pace and be wary of sudden brakes ahead. Adaptive cruise control saved me dozens of headaches and made me deeply consider buying a Toyota Corolla for myself someday. Another pro to constantly renting? I’m always trying out new vehicles and models. Every time I rent, I gain a little bit more insight into the type of vehicle I’d commit to one day. 

Portland Breakwater Light

All the driving, stressful navigation through downtown Portland, and accidental long-distance fees for data were worth it. My first destination was the Portland Breakwater Lighthouse. Perhaps a gloomy day wasn’t the best to embark on this road trip, but it was beautiful to me nonetheless. A broken sidewalk curved around the path to the small lighthouse. I stepped across uneven rock, slick with rain, careful not to misstep in shoes with zero traction. Standing since 1875, fit with a beautiful cornice and sophisticated detailing, this lighthouse’s selling feature is its Corinthian columns. Although the structure itself is small, the depth and character of the carvings bring an unexpected polish, inspired by Greek architecture. The Bug Light has been a certified historic place since 1973. 

Dashing between raindrops back to my rental, I was ready to venture to my second location. No matter how beautiful the granite decorum was, something larger awaited. Ten minutes south on the breathtaking shore of Fort Williams Park, you can bear witness to historic 18th-century remains. Despite the constant activity that ran through the fort during the Spanish-American War, none of its guns were actually fired. Fort Williams’s hustle came from the soldiers they housed and trained. Its reign only lasted until the 1960s, decommissioned in 1963.

Alongside the lighthouse and military buildings, Goddard Mansion sits hollow. There are moments and times in history where I wish I could’ve experienced it in its prime for even a day. Alongside famous European ruins, Goddard Mansion would hold a spot on this list. Passed from colonel to judge then to the government, although it had many faces, Goddard Mansion is ultimately known for housing noncommissioned officers. At the time of decommissioning in 1964, repair work to stabilize the 1853 building was estimated at nearly $200,000. In 2025, that translates to $2,172,060. With most opposed, the fire department ultimately was asked to burn the inside to remove hazardous materials, leaving only brick where a bustling mansion once housed many. 

A once-beautiful and busy home now sits deteriorated, doors removed where they once hung from beautifully carved doorways, and windows gone that once looked out at the blue coast.

A short drive away from Goddard Mansion, I stood beside the Portland Head Light; the oldest lighthouse in Maine. Under George Washington's instruction, construction began in 1787 and completed in early 1791. Masons were ordered to use cheap material such as rubble stone since the early federal government was still being formed with low funds. Amid changing political tides, they feared it wouldn't be completed. That was until "an Act for the establishment and support of Lighthouses, Beacons, Buoys, and Public Piers" was created; also known as the ninth law. Secretary of the Treasury himself, Alexander Hamilton, authorized its completion with a budget of 1,500. In 2025, this is the equivalent of $52,400.

Raised on the East Coast, there’s always a sense of home when smelling the salty air and listening to waves crash against the rocks. Letting the rain soak my hair as I stood peacefully, a woman approached, just as bare to the elements in a simple, worn hoodie. She treated me like an old friend, reminiscing about her time on the coast as a kid and bragging that she visits daily, no matter the weather. Her hospitality proved that no matter where you’re from or where you’re going, an East Coaster will always be one of the most hospitable people you can meet. 

Overall, my experience with Portland was memorable, even if I only spent the day at local parks and driving downtown. Although the traffic was terrifying and the rain cold, simply going out of your ordinary landscape can present excitement to even the gloomy days.